-Technology and Process-Garment sewing operation code
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A. Information and document confirmation
(1) Process documents:
Obtain detailed garment sewing process documents, including style drawing, size specification table, process requirements, etc. Clear the sewing method, stitch type, stitch requirements, seam width and the use of accessories and other information of each part.
(2)Sample and mark:
Check the accuracy, integrity and rationality of the sample, in line with the principle of saving fabric, fabric texture direction, pattern symmetry and other factors.
B. Preparation of fabrics and accessories
(1)Fabric inspection:
The fabric entering the sewing process is inspected again, focusing on whether the physical and chemical properties of the fabric such as shrinkage rate and color fastness meet the requirements.
(2)Accessories preparation:
All kinds of accessories, such as zippers, buttons, interlining, sewing thread, lace, etc. Check the quality and quantity of the auxiliary materials to ensure that the zipper is smooth without holding, the color of the button matches the size and is firm, the bonding effect of the interlining is good, and the strength and color fastness of the sewing thread are up to the standard. Avoid affecting production schedule due to shortage of quality and quantity of auxiliary materials.
C. Equipment and tool debugging
Sewing equipment:
Check the operation of the equipment, select and debug the corresponding sewing equipment, such as flat sewing machine, overlock sewing machine, sewing machine, keyhole machine, napping machine, etc. Regular maintenance and maintenance of the equipment, replace the worn parts, ensure the stability of the equipment and sewing quality.
A. Seam type and stitch selection
(1)Seam pattern determination:
Select the appropriate seam type according to the function and design requirements of the garment parts
-Overseam：
It is mainly used for the treatment of fabric edges to prevent fabric from falling apart, such as cuffs, hemlines, trouser bottoms and other parts.
-Bag seam:
suitable for fabrics and require joint exposed splice site, such as shirt, some joining together.
-Other seam type:
such as reverse stitching, seam pressure and lap seam, etc., according to the requirements of clothing styles and design used in specific areas.
(2)Stitch selection:
-Straight stitch:
is the most common stitch, used for general stitching and stitching, such as flat stitches usually use straight stitch.
-Multi-stitch zigzag stitch:
have a certain flexibility, often used in or need to increase the elasticity of elastic fabrics, such as the joining together of knitting fabric, elastic part of the collar and cuffs.
-Lock stitch:
often used in keyhole, studs, etc., stitch close, firm.
B. Component sewing
(1)Pocket sewing
-Sticking bag:
According to the design requirements, the edge of the sticking bag is first hemmed, the width of the folding is generally 0.5-1cm, and then ironed with an iron.
-Bag insertion:
First of all, the bag insertion cloth and the garment piece are spliced, usually by flat sewing, and the seam is 0.8-1cm.
-Dig the bag:
mark the position and size of the bag on the garment piece, and use sharp scissors or a knife to open the hole at the mark.
(2)Collar sewing
- Stand collar:
Cut and finish the cut pieces of the collar according to the design requirements, generally folding and ironing the edge of the inside and collar first. Then close the bottom side to the front side of the collar and stitch along the edge with a seam size of 0.6-0.8cm. After stitching, trim the seam neatly, turn it to the front, iron it flat, so that the collar is crisp.
-Lapel:
First of all, the face and the inside of the collar are ironed separately to smooth the fabric. The top face is opposite to the inside of the collar. Sew the outside of the collar with a seam size of 0.6-0.8cm.
(3)Cuff sewing
-Ordinary cuff:
the cuff fabric is cut according to the design size, and then the cuff is opposite to the edge of the sleeve piece, and the flat sewing machine is used to sew, the seam is 0.8-1cm.
- Elastic cuff:
First cut the elastic band according to the appropriate length of the cuff, and then sew the cuff fabric with the sleeve piece, the seam is 0.8-1cm.
A. Seam quality inspection
(1)Stitch appearance
-Titch appearance:
Check whether the stitch is uniform and neat, and whether there are defects such as skipping, broken, and floating. To check its shape and width is up to standard.
-Stitch strength:
By gently pulling the sewing part, check whether the stitch strength is enough and whether the stitch will break or come apart.
(2)Stitch strength
-Seam width:
Use a ruler to measure the width of the seam, and the seam width deviation of each part should be controlled within ±0.1cm. Uneven seam width affects the appearance and comfort of clothing, and even leads to quality problems such as seam cracking.
-Seam treatment:
Check whether the seam is properly treated, such as whether the wrap seam is uniform and firm, and whether the fabric edge is completely covered; Whether the seam to and from the seam is well hidden, no exposed phenomenon; Whether the seam of the sitting upside down seam is aligned and ironed flat
B. Component installation quality inspection
-Pocket:
Check that the position of the pocket is accurate, and the deviation from the position of the template mark should not exceed ±0.5cm. Keep the pocket flat, no distortion, deformation phenomenon, bag mouth should be flat, no gap, zipper pocket zipper should be smooth and unimpeded.
-Collar:
The position of the collar should be accurately aligned with the neckline, the collar type should be symmetrical, and the left and right deviation should not exceed ±0.3cm. The folding of the collar should be natural, and the fit between the collar and the collar should be tight, without peeling or foaming.
-Cuff:
The sewing of the cuff should be smooth, consistent in width and narrow, and the connection with the sleeve piece should be firm.
C. Overall appearance inspection
-Flatness
Check whether the whole clothing is smooth, there are no wrinkles, waves and other uneven phenomena. Make sure the fabric is smooth and smooth to show a good appearance.
-symmetry
Check whether the left and right sides of the garment are symmetrical, including the shape and position of the neckline, cuffs, pockets, and hem.
-Identification and isolation
If the garment is judged to be unqualified after inspection, it shall immediately identify and indicate the cause of the unqualified (such as seam problem, unqualified seam, improper installation of parts, etc.), batch, quantity and other information, and store it in isolation to prevent it from flowing into the next production link or market.
-Analysis of causes
Organize sewing workers, quality inspection personnel, technical personnel and other relevant personnel to analyze the causes of unqualified products. Identify specific factors leading to nonconformity from the aspects of equipment failure, improper operation methods, fabric or accessory quality problems.
-Handling measures
Take corresponding measures according to the causes of nonconformity. For repairable nonconforming products, arrange skilled workers to repair; For seriously unqualified or irreparable products, scrap treatment. Strengthen equipment maintenance, strengthen staff training, strictly control the quality of fabrics and accessories, etc., to prevent similar problems from happening again.
-Personnel training and skill upgrading
Regular skills training for sewing workers, including new sewing technology, equipment operation skills, quality standards and other aspects of training. At the same time, for the sewing difficulties of different styles of clothing, special training is organized to ensure that workers can master various sewing skills.
-Environment and device maintenance
Keep the sewing workshop clean and tidy, control the temperature, humidity and ventilation conditions of the workshop, and avoid affecting the performance and sewing quality of the fabric due to environmental factors. Ensure equipment is always in good working condition. When the equipment fails, it should be repaired in time, and the equipment is strictly forbidden to work "with disease", so as not to affect the sewing quality and production efficiency.
-Quality recording and traceability
Make quality records, inspection reports, nonconforming product records, equipment maintenance records, etc. Quality records should be true, accurate and complete, so as to facilitate tracing the links and causes of product quality problems. Through the analysis of quality records, the experience and lessons are summarized, and the sewing process and quality management methods are constantly improved.